THE HIDDEN TREASURES OF BODRUM AND KOS
THE HIDDEN TREASURES OF BODRUM AND KOS
Anna Masliakova
Ph.D. in Art Criticism, Kyrgyz National University named after Jusup Balasagyn,
Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
Undoubtedly, each and every place on Earth is unique in its own way. This time my trip to the City of Bodrum coincided with one of the most significant Muslim holidays, Kurban Bayramı. Frankly speaking, I did not pay much attention to it before, and I must admit that it annoyed me greatly when they blocked the streets of St. Petersburg so that people could gather at the Great Mosque for a special morning prayer. Nevertheless, over time, I have grown to appreciate Muslim traditions. In fact, it turns out that the differences between us are not so considerable; suffice it to mention that even Rembrandt was deeply fascinated by Eastern culture, and in the Hermitage Museum there is his painting called “The Sacrifice of Isaac”, dedicated to the holiday mentioned above.
By the way, it is amazing to what extent our perception of events is determined by the circumstances we find ourselves in. And while I was driving to the nearest hospital late in the evening on June 27, 2023, people around me were enjoying themselves, dancing, singing … Yet I saw the situation quite differently—for me, all that was just a context against which my personal “drama” was developing. I must say that the “background” of my “tragedy” was not unpleasant, though. But let us start from the beginning.
Firstly, it is said that the weather in Bordum is much cooler than, for example, in Antalya. Yet, if you ask me, summer can be scorching even there. Besides, it may be rather hard for a newcomer to navigate the city without a proper map since all the streets look alike, and the situation is aggravated by the fact that the local stores sell fairly similar products. The same is true about the Island of Kos, which I managed to visit one day; that is to say, a gentle breeze was blowing there, too. But if you happen to turn into a side street, there may be no wind whatsoever, and the sun could beat down mercilessly upon you. Fortunately, as soon as you return to the embankment or go to a fish restaurant overlooking the Aegean Sea, the heat recedes, and suddenly you find yourself enjoying the seascapes of incredible beauty. Or, what is more, you could take a yacht cruise in the Aegean. And I must admit that never have I seen such picturesque views—the color of the water changes from deep blue to turquoise and aquamarine, and in the rays of the setting sun, it acquires a golden hue. And I do believe that nothing could be better than meeting the sunset on a yacht to the accompaniment of the famous song from “Titanic” called “My Heart Will Go On” (see Fig. 1.).
Figure 1. Sunset in Bodrum
Figure 2. Marble blocks from the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus
As we all know, during the Antiquity, Bodrum was called “Halicarnassus”. And one of the Seven Wonders of the World—the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus—used to be there. By the way, the 130-foot-high structure, built on a hill so as to ensure maximum visibility, comprised Greek, Lycian, and Egyptian styles [1]. It was erected by the order of Mausolus’ sister and wife, Artemisia II of Caria. The monument was so impressive that when Alexander of Macedonia captured the city, he did not destroy it. And yet, it was badly damaged by a series of earthquakes from the 12th to the 15th centuries, and later, when the Knights of St. John of Rhodes invaded the region, they used the stones from the Mausoleum as building material for their Castle. And while in the Castle of St. Peter, one can still see those ancient marble blocks covered with inscriptions adorning the medieval structure (see Fig. 2.).
Figure 3. Ivory duck-shaped vessels
Figure 4. Porcupine-shaped aryvallos
Moreover, in the 19th century, many of the surviving parts of the Mausoleum were transported to London due to the efforts of the British archeologist Charles Thomas Newton. So there is practically nothing left at the site where the magnificent building used to be, yet in the British Museum there is a large room where its numerous parts are exhibited. “The Fisherman of Halicarnassus”, Cevat Şakir Kabaağaçlı, once wrote a letter to the British Royal Family saying that “The pieces in London integrate with the blue of Bodrum. They should not stay in London. It is necessary to bring them together with the blue with which they are integrated” [2]. However, the reply was rather sarcastic since the director of the Museum wrote that they took his suggestion very seriously and “painted the hall where the artefacts are exhibited in Bodrum blue” [2]. And, apparently, the discussions on the matter do not cease to this day [3].
Figure 5. Coats of Arms, the Castle of St. Peter
Figure 6. Drinkers for horses, the Castle of St. Peter
Figure 7. The Island of Kos
Figure 8. A cat sleeping at the Archeological Museum
Apart from Artemisia II of Caria, there was another woman who played a crucial part in Ancient history: Ada of Caria, a sister of Artemisia and Mausolus, who helped Alexander of Macedonia capture Halicarnassus, for it was she who adopted him as her son and surrendered the fortress of Alinda. And in the Castle of St. Peter in Bodrum, there is an exhibition featuring the statue of the Carian Princess and some very fine pieces of her jewelry [4]. Furthermore, not far from it there is the Museum of Underwater Archeology, dedicated to the oldest shipwreck in the World dating back to the 14th century BC, the Uluburun Shipwreck [5]. While there, one can also admire the cargo of the ship, which is no less impressive than the ship itself. Let us mention, for instance, ivory duck-shaped vessels or Egyptian scarabs (see Fig. 3.). And in one of the rooms housing various burial objects, there is another Artwork originating in Egypt—a porcupine-shaped aryvallos, or perfume bottle (see Fig. 4.).
The Castle of St. Peter consists of the French, Spanish (Snake), German, Italian, and English Towers, richly adorned with various coats of arms. For example, there one can find the group of the coats of arms made between 1503 and 1512 and placed in a “T” shape: the top left is the coat of arms of the Order, the top right is that of the Grand Master Emery d’Amboise, and the bottom is the coat of arms of the Castle’s architect Heinrich Schlegenholt (see Fig. 5.). It may not be easy to ascend the stairs of the Castle since they are extremely steep, and it is believed that the knights used to enter the Castle on horseback. In fact, on top of the staircase, there are some water drinkers for horses, confirming that statement (see Fig. 6.).
Figure 9. The Loggia Mosque
Apparently, the quiet and cozy Island of Kos appeals to me much more than the overcrowded and bustling Island of Rhodes. It was Tuesday when I visited Kos, and since practically all the museums were closed on that very day, I dedicated my entire time to walking around the island and contemplating the past and the future. As a matter of fact, there are many people speaking Turkish there, which is not surprising. And although after World War I the Greeks were forced to leave Turkey, and, vice versa, the Turks had to abandon Greek territories, their close proximity to each other never failed to contribute to the cultural dialogue between those people. Not to mention the fact that the houses located in Bordum are painted white and blue, reminding of the colors of the Greek flag. Sitting in the restaurant at the Aegean Sea, it dawned on me that the “music” of that place was simply amazing: a complex amalgamation of Greek songs playing in the background, snatches of English and Turkish phrases, and the soothing sound of the waves (see Fig. 7.).
Figure 10. Theater at Halicarnassus
Figure 11. The Temple of Hecate at Lagina
Having visited the Agnus Dei Catholic Church, I went along the country road where sheep were grazing peacefully. There were also many cats dead asleep at the Archeological Museum (see Fig. 8.). And we should not forget about a centenarian plane tree standing in the center of the Platanou Square; according to tradition, Hippocrates used to teach his disciples under it. Right behind it there is the Loggia Mosque built by Gazi Hassan Pasha in 1786; and the monumental main staircase on the side of the plane tree looks absolutely stunning and leads from the entrance directly to the prayer room (see Fig. 9.).
Furthermore, since both Bodrum and Kos have mountainous terrain, it is no surprise that many ancient theaters were built there. Not only does the sea improve the acoustics, but it could also be used as a prop, greatly contributing to the success of the performances (see Fig. 10.). And if you look closely, you can see that there are rather large holes in the stone blocks, indicating that there used to be an awning stretching over the whole theater and protecting the audience from bad weather conditions.
Figure 12. Lavatories in Stratonikeia
Figure 13. One of the Windmills in Bodrum
As we have mentioned before on more than one occasion, there was no shortage of famous women making their marks on Ancient history. And now we should focus our attention on Stratonice of Syria: her husband’s son Antiochus fell in love with her, and his father Seleucus let them be together, as depicted by Pompeo Batoni in his painting “Antiochus and Stratonice” [6]. And eventually, the whole town was named after her—Stratonikeia. By the way, there are many of the so-called “places of power” in the district of Bodrum: one can make a wish standing at the ruins of the Myndos Gate, throw a coin into one of the drinkers at the Castle of St. Peter, or visit the Temple of Hecate at Lagina, located not far from Stratonikeia, the goddess of magic, witchcraft, the night, and the Moon (see Fig. 11.). It is said that some people come to the latter specifically to perform special magic rituals [7]. And I must say that even the lavatory at Stratonikeia looks like a temple (see Fig. 12.).
Figure 14. The Island of Kos (at a distance)
As I have said earlier, the architecture of Bodrum reminds greatly of a Greek city: the houses are painted white and blue, and bougainvillea plants enrich the color palette of the landscape enormously. “Bodrum” means “basemen”, and yet, I cannot help but agree with A. Bergson; that is to say, all those Ancient masterpieces do not just “lie” there like potatoes in the cellar. On the contrary, they enrich our present-day history and give us an opportunity to revalue our priorities. Without any doubt, many of the wonders of Bodrum and Kos are in need of restoration. Suffice it to mention that the ruins of the old Windmills of Bodrum with wooden “buttresses” supporting them look as if they were designed by Salvador Dalí (see Fig. 13.). And from there, one can see the Island of Kos itself on the right (see Fig. 14.) [8].
To sum it up, travelling helps us not only to explore new horizons but also to know ourselves better. On the one hand, the places we visit contribute to our self-development and cultural self-determination, yet, at the same time, when we leave them, we leave little pieces of our hearts behind. All in all, bearing that in mind, the “deal” seems to be mutually beneficial.
References:
- Lakdawala, A, “History of Design- The Mausoleum at Halicarnassus”, https://infectedwithlaziness.wordpress.com/2017/09/19/history-of-design-the-mausoleum-at-halicarnassus/ (accessed July 4, 2023).
- “The Story of an Exile in the Mediterranean: A Punishment or a Reward?”, https://themediterraneanmag.com/blogs/magazine/the-story-of-an-exile-in-the-mediterranean-a-punishment-or-a-reward (accessed July 4, 2023).
- “Lawyer sends letter to Queen Elizabeth II for return of Halicarnassus Mausoleum pieces”, https://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/lawyer-sends-letter-to-queen-elizabeth-ii-for-return-of-halicarnassus-mausoleum-pieces-47666 (accessed July 4, 2023).
- “Carian Princess Exhibit”, https://www.bodrum-museum.com/carian-princess-exhibit/ (accessed July 4, 2023).
- “The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology”, https://www.ktb.gov.tr/EN-120300/the-bodrum-museum-of-underwater-archaeology.html (accessed July 4, 2023).
- “Antiochus And Stratonice, Painted By Pompeo Batoni”, https://thehistorianshut.com/2021/05/04/antiochus-and-stratonice-painted-by-pompeo-batoni-c-1708-1787/ (accessed July 4, 2023).
- Masliakova, A, “Stratonikeia and Lagina”, https://youtu.be/XU_kshmomyw, (accessed July 4, 2023).
- Masliakova, A, “Kos Island”, https://youtu.be/A9rFSdo9ONs (accessed July 4, 2023).